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Delight yourself in the Lord; And He will give you the desires of your heart. Psalm37:4
You See a Kitten that You'd like to adopt...
If you just found the kitten of your dreams and you decided you just have to have him or her, and he or she is confirmed to be available, all that is needed to do is place a small deposit, usually $400. This deposit goes directly towards the kitten's price and is non-refundable but is transferable one time if done before the initially reserved kitten is 5 weeks of age. You may contact me at 813-295-4807 and purrepiphany@gmail.com to discuss arrangements and to check availability of the kitten you have chosen. I try to update this website and my Facebook Page as quickly as possible when a kitten is deposited on but always check because I could have just received a deposit minutes before.
For your convenience, we do accept electronic money transfer, as well as personal checks (if time permits), for deposits or to pay for your kitten in full (if done at least 7 days before pick up.) If there is a balance owed when the kitten's pickup date arrives, you will need to bring the balance in cash. After your deposit is received, I will send you, via email, a Kitten Deposit Agreement and Kitten Prep & Care Paper, which you will be asked to acknowledge receipt of by return email. This information contains the pick up date, the food I am feeding etc. so should be read.
Upon receipt or expectation of deposit, I will mark your kitten on the website as "pending" or "reserved", depending on the status of the deposit. I don't accept deposits on this website because I prefer to speak or communicate with you prior to you're adopting one of my kittens. So please give me a call, text or email me before sending money to verify that the kitten you are wanting is still available and to go over a few things. We cannot hold a kitten with out a deposit.
The kittens are all given an ID name, between 2-4 weeks of age, that usually corresponds with a chosen theme for that litter, or groups of litters born around the same time. This ID name makes my relationship with them much more personal and this added element of individualized affection imprints on the kitten. They aren't just another kitten. They are "Jasmine" or "Cheyenne". Having themes for the litters has helped me remember, without having to look at my records, who certain kittens are, even years later. At the same time the kittens are color coded with non-toxic Piggy Paint nail polish on their rumps or tail to easily identify them from one another (you may see this in their videos and pictures- the red color really freaks people out 😄. By the time they go home, I know each one without needing the nail polish, but I believe the polish gives the new families peace of mind that they will get the kitten they have chosen. And the veterinarian uses my ID names and color coding to identify the kittens on their individual health certificates as well, and they can be certain every kitten will be sold with his or her actual health certificate. They tell me there is quite a bit of health certificate fraud going on amongst unscrupulous breeders😒.
To Reserve a Kitten...
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If you decide you'd like to reserve a kitten, please contact me by phone, text or email. I will verify that the kitten you are interested in is available. Once you've made your deposit/down payment on the kitten, I will send, by email, a Deposit Agreement/Receipt. Please Read and acknowledge your acceptance of this agreement by return email.
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I will also send a Kitten Prep & Care form with loads of information, items you will need and things you should do before your kitten’s pick-up date. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.
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Communication between us is necessary in order to experience a smooth and pleasant transaction. Contact me by text, phone call or email.
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I post pictures and videos weekly of your kitten and his or her siblings on my Facebook Page. You can take screen shots of the videos, which is mostly what I do. If you "Like" or "Follow" my page you will get notifications when I post, which I try to do at least once per day during the week and multiple posts during the weekend. Feel free to text me and ask me for a picture from time to time. I don’t mind and send one asap. I do appreciate your patience in advance. I keep so busy with the babies and the days seem to fly by but I’ll do my best.
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If you are interested in reading how things go here, day to day, behind the scenes while raising the litter, I have information on my website. It's a little outdated and things have evolved over time but it's mostly the same basic things going on.
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Kittens go to their vet for health certificates/first shots at 8 weeks of age, the day before the pick-up date. If you are making arrangements to come from a great distance to pick up your kitten and perhaps to visit family or one of Florida’s Theme Parks during the trip, I advise you to plan to pick up your kitten on one of the next two days after the initial pick-up date. This will allow time for you to verify that the kitten did get his health certificate prior to your leaving and, in the rare event that the fecal exam shows the litter has an organism (bacteria, worm, protozoa) in the stool, it will allow time for treatment to be administered and a negative fecal exam result. If what I have written here is confusing to you, please reach out to me for clarification.
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During the pandemic, we began meeting in front of our home and, for health and safety reasons, we have continued this arrangement.
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I don’t allow the kittens to be touched by anyone outside my immediate family prior to sale. There are many contagious cat diseases and viruses out there! Please take some time to do a little research on this topic ahead of time.
SHIPPING...
KITTEN CAN ONLY TRAVEL WITH YOU OR YOUR CHOSEN TRAVEL GUARDIAN IN AN AIRLINE APPROVED CARRIER, UNDER THE SEAT, WITHIN THE CLIMATE CONTROLLED CABIN. NO CARGO SHIPPING. Our closest airport is Tampa International. You will have to pick up your kitten here at our home. Many of my kittens have traveled home with their new moms/dads who have booked flights to pick them up. Some have made a round trip in the same day, but others have chosen to visit family close by, go to Disney and even go on a cruise while here in sunny Florida, then pick up their kitten and fly home. Alternatively, Pet Transporters can be hired to bring kitty to you. I can recommend several who have transported for previous families with happy success.
BEWARE OF SCAMS!
I know this isn't a new realization for most people but it is getting really really bad now. The scammers are professional. They treat their scamming business like a full fledge money making business. The best and most simple advice I can give you is to speak to the breeder on the phone. And aside from that the breeder you are considering should have a website. And there are ways to confirm that the website is long standing and wasn't just created yesterday. Although there are newcomers to the world of breeding cats all the time so they too would have a new website. Really you just have to consider the whole picture when searching for a reputable breeder. They should have an active social media presence if they are legit. Facebook and Instagram are most popular. Try to research the person's personal name as well on these platforms. How many followers do they have and read the posts and comments on their social media. If you have time to follow them for awhile you can see that they are a legitimate breeder. I primarily use my Facebook Page and occasionally post pictures on my Instagram. Scammers do use social media and websites but they do have to shut down and reopen because consumers are after them. The same basic principle applies to buying a cat as buying anything. If it seems too good to be true it probably is. Don't send money without doing your due diligence. Other than money for a deposit, you should not be asked to send any additional money. Check out the Pet Transporters well too. Once scam site was posing as the breeder and then, separately, as the transporter and took money from the consumer from both angles.
OPINIONS
I wanted to address the subject of opinions. People sometimes share with me the opinions of other breeders they have dealt with. I have also read online the many opinions of many other breeders on the various subjects regarding cats. Subjects such as what is the best cat food. The best litter brand. To bathe kitty every 2 weeks or just twice a year. All relative to opinions built by the breeder you're asking.
A person's opinion on a matter is formed by their experiences as well as what they hear or read that they believe. And hopefully it is governed by common sense and their ability to think for themselves. Naturally we all don't agree. And that's okay...normal...to be expected. I, like them, have my many opinions on subjects, all based on what I have read and heard and filtered with my common sense and my overthinking mind. I could get into every one of them here but I will choose just one.
Some breeders are of the opinion that a kitten needs to be at least 12 weeks old before going to his or her new home. Let me explain to you the circumstances for why this 12 week time frame arose. There are TWO main reasons!! Firstly, before 1990 cat breeders used to just be show fanciers. There were very few Pet Only cat breeders. This is because the concept of owning a pedigreed cat is a relatively new one compared to dogs. And because there were no state or county ordinances to dictate the "proper" time for kitty to enter their new home, these show breeders formed their own opinions based on TWO things.
One, they breed their cats to produce show specimens. Unfortunately in a litter there are rarely show specimens and never without fault. The breeders kept the kittens long enough to determine which kittens, if any, were going to have the correct structure and temperament needed to point (and win) in the show circuit. Showing cats isn't cheap. They need to be sure before they pay all the entry fees and get kitty trained up and glammed up, not to mention the traveling costs. A lot of times these breeders are waiting to see if a kitten pans out, to see if that bite that is a little off corrects itself or if kitty's demeanor becomes more presentable.
Not only are the show breeders looking for show specimens, they are also looking for breeding specimens for themselves and their friends. A breeding specimen may lack the charismatic personality or have some minor structural fault that the breeder can "breed out of them" when they choose their mate. That is why kittens were placed between 12-16 weeks and they still ARE being placed at 12-16 weeks for the same reason but also a good handful of breeders do it just because someone told them that's what they should do. And let me tell you, in the world of show breeding and sometimes even regular pet breeding, being shamed is such a horrible horrible fate. So instead of just thinking for themselves and risking being shamed, they just follow suit. How do I know this information? Because I used to show dogs a little and hung with those who showed a lot. One of whom raised Persian cats as well. I know all this info first hand. I was an insider...lol.
It's interesting to note here that each state may or may not have laws in place governing when the appropriate age is to place kittens and puppies. Florida used to be like a lot of states still are and had no rules or regulations in place. But that changed in the 80's and currently all dogs and cats sold in the state of Florida must be at least 8 weeks old and have an official state health certificate. Yet a certain type of cat breeder looks down on letting them go at 8 weeks, one of them arguing to a friend of mine that 'experts say they need to be with their mom until 12 weeks' I have yet to hear what experts she is referring to. But I'm pretty sure when the state of Florida wrote the Pet Lemon Law, they conferred with experts to come up with the 8 week guideline. I doubt they just picked a number. And, for me, the years of beautiful results speaks for itself! Adopting a kitten as young as is safe produces a beautiful early bond with his or her family. Anyone born before 1980 can probable remember adopting puppies and kittens from litters as soon as they began eating food ( 5-6 weeks). In dog training manuals it is well known that the 49th day (7 weeks) is the ideal age for a puppy to leave it's littermates and mom and become bonded with it's human for training purposes. I think 8 weeks old is a very wise, responsible and puuurrrrfect age to send kittens to their new families.
Oh and reason #2 of why cat breeders began keeping their kittens until 12-16 weeks is due to a fungus. A long, long time ago ringworm was rampant among cat breeders. It was terrible. And there were no medications like they have today for the treatment. They had to use dips and it took many many weeks to clear up and many never did clear. That is why today you still see breeders advertising fungus free cattery. It used to be a thing. It was nearly impossible to find a fungus free cattery so much so, that breeders would advertise as one it if they were indeed fungus free.
So, in summary, once again, whether to adopt out a kitten at 8 weeks or 12 weeks or 16 weeks is all a matter of an opinion. I encourage everyone to think for themselves.
THE PERSIAN BREED...
Persian cats are an ancient breed and one of the most well known cat breeds. They are a calm, quiet breed and very docile (totally domesticated in nature). They do have a coat that requires frequent brushing or, some owner's prefer, to keep their Persian in a clip usually done by a professional cat groomer. If the Persian's full coat is maintained by every other day light brushing, the coat will remain tangle and mat free which will assure that grooming time will not be uncomfortable for the cat and your time spent together will become a special bonding time, enjoyed by both of you. If the coat is let go, and tugging and pulling or shaving is required to "catch up" on the coat care, then kitty will learn to dislike grooming. With proper coat care, which can be pleasant, a Persian cat is a delight to own. As far as behavior, Persians rarely get into trouble or bounce around all crazy like some other breeds of cats. Yet they are still playful and whimsical. They are beautiful to look at, easy going and, to me, the tried and true most popular house cat breed.
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HIMALAYAN PERSIANS...
Before the 1980's the Himalayan cat was not considered a Persian according to the CFA. So many people still believe that a "Himalayan" is a separate breed of cat than a Persian. The Himalayan may be considered a separate breed from the Persian with other registries around the world. But according to the CFA, which is the largest pedigreed cat registry in the world, the Himalayan is indeed a Persian.
Around the 1930's the Himalayan variety was created by enthusiasts, by crossing in the Siamese. The new variant was perfected over the following 50 years by breeding out the Siamese characteristics while retaining the markings and coloration.
By the 1980's the Himalayan colored Persian, having gone through the protocol required of every new variation before being accepted into the prestigious CFA "club", became recognized by the CFA. Since the eighties, according to the CFA website, Himalayans are just one color division of the Persian cat breed. Just like a Persian that has silvery shaded markings is called a Shaded Silver and a black and white Persian is called a Bi-Colour, a color pointed "Siamese" marked Persian is called a Himalayan and to avoid this confusion, they are sometimes referred to as a "color point".
And, because a Himalayan marked Persian is a Persian, he should possess all the traits and characteristics of any other colored Persian cat, such as having a round head, short ears and nose, a cobby build, full coat, etc. There are several other breeds of cats that sport the color point "Siamese" markings, such as the Birman and the Balinese, therefore one can't call every long haired cat with "Siamese" markings a Himalayan.
This excerpt is taken from the CFA Website:
Himalayan Division
The Himalayan is one of the most popular of all Persians. The Himalayan is shown in the following point colors: chocolate, seal, lilac, blue, red, cream tortie, blue-cream, chocolate-tortie, lilac-cream, seal lynx, blue lynx, red lynx, cream lynx, tortie lynx, blue-cream lynx, chocolate lynx, lilac lynx, chocolate-tortie lynx and lilac-cream lynx. Color is restricted to the facial mask and extremities with the body of various shades of white to fawn.
DOLL FACE AND FLAT FACE ...
Doll Face and Flat Face and every face in between! They are all precious! These are the terms used by Persian enthusiasts to describe the Persian cats' facial features and expression. I actually have 5 face types to describe Persians. Doll Face, Sweet Doll Face, Medium Doll Face, Flat or Peke Face and Show Face. These pictures will demonstrate the various faces with some of the pictures showing a face that could be in the category below or above it. In other words, they vary like different shades of a color, not every one is the same or fits neatly in a category.
In this drawing I made, I demonstrate how the nose setting can help you determine if a cat is doll face, flat face or somewhere in between. Notice the nose is set up right between the eyes in the cat considered a flat or peke face and lower on the doll face.
The smaller cramped sinus cavity in the flat (or peke face) is why they are known for having more breathing problems. Although, my experience with my flat faced cats has demonstrated that as long as the nose itself is large and not covered by folds of skin, they breathe just fine. There is, however, more often some tearing and resulting mess & stains under the eyes on the flatter faced cats.
Doll Face
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Sweet Doll Face
Medium Doll Face
Flat or Peke Face
"Show" Face
The Show face is a Peke Face but with features that meet the current Persian breed standard. Along with a cute button nose tucked up between the eyes , I see small little ears and large round eyes. Peke faced and Show Faced Persians can have, but don't always have, breathing difficulties due to their noses being positioned where they are especially if the nose is small and the nose has heavy folds on top. The Flat Face and the Peke Face Persians often have more tearing from the eyes than the Doll Face Persians due to their confined sinuses. Here at Purr Epiphany I guess you could say we appreciate all types, but for my White Persians I definitely prefer a doll face or sweet doll face since the tearing often found in the more flat faced kitties is more obvious and unattractive on the white Persian.
Sometimes breeders of one face type will disapprove of the other types. But the bottom line is, everyone has their own preference. At some point in the history of the Persian cat all the various face types existed and were predominant. In summary, the Doll Face Persians are gorgeous as long as they still look like a Persian. They should still have an adorable round head with the cute Persian features. They should still have a full and beautiful coat, though it is often more silky, and easier to care for, than their flat face counterparts. Flat Face Persians have classic Persian features, but they are a little higher maintenance because of their often thicker coats and tearing eyes.
All in all, the Doll Face Persian is beautiful, with less work, but who can resist the pushed up snobby nose of the Peke Face or the "grumpy cat" frowny mouth of the Flat Faced Persian. We have the genetics for all 3 types and as a result we are producing varying degrees of Persian expression and it is totally up to you to choose what you like.
WHAT COMES WITH MY KITTEN?
Your kitten will come with his or her State of Florida health certificate (includes first shots, physical exam by vet, check for parasites, negative fecal exam and negative FeLV/FIV test), the CFA Registration paper, Sales Agreement & Warranty, Care instructions, recommendations & tips. Also a gift bag with folder, a sample of his dry and wet kitten foods, a comb to promote grooming, a few of his favorite toys, a soft blanket and stuffed toy scented by mom and siblings to comfort your baby during transition to new home and a variety of other items depending what's available. Before he goes home, your kitten will have a sanitary groom to help keep his "bathroom area" cleaner when using the litter box. He will have his nails trimmed, a bath and a blow dry. As you and your kitten begin your journey together, if there are times you have questions or would like some reassurance or advice, feel free to contact me, I would be happy to talk with you.
If you are interested in reading how things go here, day to day, behind the scenes while raising the litter, I write the information below years ago. It's a little outdated and things have evolved over time but it's mostly the same basic things going on. My videos on my Facebook Page really show the crazy love of this thing I do every day, 24/7/365. I encourage you to visit my page and watch a video or two. 💖
The kittens are born in a box in my bedroom. The first 2-3 weeks they are handled and kissed on several times a day as I check them over and "put my eye" on how they're doing. But they mostly sleep these weeks away in their nice warm box. As the kittens grow they begin to spend a little bit of time out of their birth box and up on the bed with me. I call my bedroom "The Nursery" and only rare visits from anybody (my other cats) but mama kitties are allowed. It's a girls club in here. You can say it..... I am a crazy cat lady🤪. I have been married (and divorced) , my kids are grown and I'm a grandma, so I'm entitled to be a little crazy. By the time the kittens are 5 weeks old they are spending all day out on the bed. The bed is another whole story in itself. Each morning I make my bed ( normal 2 layers) then the bed rails go up to secure the kittens on the bed, then the next 2 layers, the waterproof terry-cloth cover and the blanket. Now it is ready for the kittens. They sleep, play and eat on the bed from 10AM until 10 or 11PM each evening and then they go back into their snuggly box next to my bed for the night. Actually they have access to their box all day, as well, since it opens up onto my bed. So they hop in and out to get to the litter box, their dry food and their water as they wish. Now, due to my layering, my bed remains clean and fresh for me to get my much needed granny sleep each night.🛏️It is interrupted granny sleep due to the mama cats coming and going, but, I can sleep in. The kittens and I wake up around 9 or 10AM and the whole process begins again.
During their on the bed play time, kittens are whisked off to other rooms to have a face or a bum cleaning or to show them off to mom and dad, who coo over them like they were real babies. The kittens are encouraged to eat yummy foods prepared for them and are guided to the litter boxes each day all throughout the day. My fully covered bed also doubles as an office for me while they play all around me. I work on my laptop or do paperwork, message, email and talk with potential new kitten families while I'm petting and kissing on the babies. I am an admitted introvert and a homebody. Covid 19 has not changed my life at all except I now order groceries online and have no-contact pick up. Yaaaay! There are known cases of big cats and of domestic cats acquiring Covid 19, so you will be happy to know that I am the most risk free breeder you will ever find😷. My parents are the same way. Happy homebodies. As I work in my "office", the kittens climb on me, bite my toes, help me work (by climbing onto my lap top or chasing my hand as it moves the mouse.) They come over and mew for pets and some attention, snuggle next to me in piles to take a nap (making it impossible for me to move) and as they get on in weeks, they begin to explore every inch of the up high areas (shelves) above and beside my bed, climbing fearlessly over my day pillows (night pillows are tucked securely away under 4 layers of bedding) to reach their destination.) And by the time they are 8 weeks old they are leaving the bed to explore the floor, despite the rails. But they are ready. And that's when you come in. I've given your kitten the best start he or she could possibly have. I am dedicated to this "job" that brings me so much joy! 🙏They are pre-spoiled and I always hear the good news that they have marched right into their new homes (and their family's hearts) without looking back.
So, now your kitten is 8 weeks old and will be visiting our vet for his or her health certificate (required by law.) Prior to the vet visit your kitten will receive a sanitary clip of his "bathroom area". He will have his nails trimmed, be given a bath with a small amount of blue Dawn Dishwashing liquid and a blow dry. During their vet visit, they each get a physical exam, screened for worms and other parasites, blood drawn for the FeLV and FIV tests and their first shots. It's a 3 hour ordeal and afterwards they come home a little pooped. While they rest and nurse on their mom, I sterilize everything. My shoes are bleached ( I purposely have bleachable ones), my clothes are washed, I'm showered. Their carrier and the car mat are bleached and laid in the sun. I even spray the car pedals with bleach spray. Yes, I am also the most germaphobe breeder you will ever find, as well. No kittens are touched by anyone but us within this household prior to going home with you. Make no mistake, every care has been taken to insure I deliver you a healthy kitten. This isn't my first 100 rodeos, if you haven't ready the HOME and ABOUT US pages. I've been diligently breeding little pets since I was 12. And, I am by nature, a clean freak. Fortunately, this is all I have to do, day in and day out, other than normal family stuff, and I absolutely love it!!
So the day after their vet visit, the kittens are rested up and their scary vet visit is out of their minds, and noone has had a negative reaction to the vaccines, so now they are able to go to their new homes. Our kittens are usually picked up here by their new families the day after their vet visit. I do require that they are picked up within 5 days of their pickup date. My reasons for requiring pickup within 5 days – There are two reasons. Both reasons are in the best interest of the kitten, you and me. First, it is beneficial that the kitten join your family at the youngest age possible and allowable by law. The earlier the kitten joins your family the easier his transition will be. As the kitten ages, he becomes more aware of and more accustomed to his surroundings and the people in his life. An early joining will insure he transitions smoothly to your home and that he quickly bonds to your family. By 7 weeks of age the kittens are usually eating well and using the litter box confidently. However, the law requires they stay in their birth home until they are 8 weeks of age. I agree with this timeframe as this extra week assures that the kittens are ready for the stresses that naturally occur when going to their new homes. The second reason I ask that the kitten is picked up within 5 days is for liability reasons. Kittens begin light play around 4-5 weeks of age and by 6 weeks of age they are playing well. By the time the kittens are 8 weeks of age, they believe they are invincible and naturally want to expand their exploration and play areas within the house. As they do so, they will encounter various safety risks. Obviously, we’ve prepared our home and we supervise them to our best ability but, regardless, normal households pose risks to very small kittens. For instance, our adult cats and 2 small dogs live freely in our home and could harm the kitten. We operate recliner chairs which could harm the kitten. Objects could fall. The kitten could fall. The kittens could be stepped on or could cause older people in the home to fall. For these reasons the requirement to pick up your kitten within 5 days is included in my Deposit Agreement. If I am asked to keep a kitten beyond the 5 days, I will happily do so, and will do so to the best of my ability, but it will be at your own risk. There are generally several weeks from the date you place the deposit for the kitten, until the pickup date, during which you can plan your time accordingly. The majority of the time, new families show me that their new kitten is a priority for them and can not wait to pick him or her up. I send each kitten home with a tote bag full of essentials to get you started. Even though you most likely will have gotten the needed items listed on the Pre-Take Home list, I like to send you with basics. They can act as extras if you already have the items. In the tote, I've included a few toys, a stuffed toy and baby blanket that has been on the bed throughout the past weeks. These items have scents of mom and littermates and his or her birth home (all they've known up until today.) These items can provide reassurance for your kitten during his first few days. You should have already made your "new kitten" vet appointment. I will have provided you with even more paperwork explaining the precautions you should take during this visit and subsequent visits. And that's how this all goes down. I am always here for questions, advice or concerns. And I absolutely love pictures!
8 WEEKS IN THE LIFE OF YOUR KITTEN...
KITTEN BUYING TIPS...
**NOTE This section is a little outdated post pandemic. Today there are many opportunities online, such as social media, videos and live video chat, to view the kittens, their parents and the environment in which they were raised. Along with the health and safety risks to our human family members by allowing people into our homes, breeders also need to protect their furr baby family members, aka our pets, from the many diseases to which they are susceptible. There are many viral and bacterial diseases that can be carried in on skin, clothing, bags and shoes. Most people don't think anything of it. Although I have always been super clean crazy about germs, Covid has made all of this even more apparent to me. Vaccinations only protect pets for a small handful of what's out there. For this reason, we don't allow people into out home but we do bring you to our home. This way you can still feel comfortable that we are not going anywhere and we are real people, not scammers. So read the following with this newer information in mind.
I suppose this section could also be called 'Buyer Beware'. And I do feel that it is important to inform folks who have never shopped for pets online before of possible scams or shady practices that do go on in this business just like every business. There are a lot of reputable breeders of pets out there but there are just as many that have no business in this business. Take the old 'bait and switch' for example. There are many kitten ads out there, all pictured with bright eyes and bushy tails. But is the picture your looking at really a picture of the kitten you will be shown to possibly purchase? It's true, I am a skeptic. Myself, being once a very naïve young girl, with many years in this field, first breeding and showing dogs, then breeding cats, have unveiled some ugly truths about this business. I've probably not seen it all but I've probably heard about it. As a buyer you should beware of the bait and switch. The kitten in the picture is not the one you are presented with. Keep in mind, kittens, being kittens, don't normally cooperate with picture taking and it takes a lot of time and a million shots to get that one great shot. An unreputable breeder finds it's a lot easier to keep using the same great pictures of their best kittens they've acquired over the years rather than take new pictures of the actual kitten you will be getting. Or worse yet, they find it's even easier to steal pictures online from other breeders in another state or country and place them in the ad to look like theirs. They are misrepresenting the animal you are considering to buy which is against the law. Another thing to keep in mind, the breeder of the kitten you are interested in should be able to clearly and definitively discuss their cats, kittens and breeding practices without any shadiness. All our kittens are given names so that we and you can refer to them in that way. No mix up. No switching. If a breeder can't tell you first hand the where and how of their practices and about each kitten individually, you should beware. Once you have decided to take a chance and go have a look at the kitten, don't let the freshly washed (because he was full of fleas or filthy) cuteness of the kitten fool you. Or ,even worse, let his sad disposition or unkempt appearance make you feel sorry for him and distract you from the important issues at hand. Are the premises clean? Are you even able to visit the home where your kitten has been living? Do the kitten's parents appear healthy? Are you able to even meet the kitten's parents. I've heard too many stories. One that comes to mind is the one of the puppy breeder meeting a prospective buyer at their chain link fence with a freshly washed puppy. A record of some dewormer and the shot the puppy supposedly had were scribbled on a napkin. Why did that happen? What's going on in there? Why was business conducted at the fence? From what I've seen and learned over 30 years is.....mostly likely inside you would find unclean premises, animals with feces or fleas on them possibly living in cages, overcrowded conditions or other cramped quarters, and possibly sick animals. And the fact is....they don't want you to see it. Oh, they may tell you an excuse as to why but in 30 years of doing this I have never once not been able to arrange my time in a way that a potential new family for one of my babies couldn't come to my home, meet us and the kitten or puppies' parents. To me, there is no excuse for that and it's very shady. Another most obvious issue....Is the kitten healthy? This is hard to tell if the fleas and/or feces has just been bathed off of him. And it's hard to tell if he's behaving sickly or just scared if he is not shown in the familiar environment of his home. Has the kitten been examined by a veterinarian? The state of Florida requires all dogs and cats to be 8 weeks old and have an official health certificate issued by a licensed vet prior to sale. I've included a picture of what this paper looks like below since many people are lead to believe that a health "record" is the same thing. A record of health can come in many forms and anybody can "make" one. There is only one official health certificate form, and it should be filled out, certified and signed by a veterinarian and you should receive it with your kitten....and that's the one pictured below. All of this being said, you should buy a kitten from Purr Epiphany because you will be invited to our home to meet us and our kitty family. We want to meet you too before you take one of our little ones. Our kittens are vet examined and certified and the certificate is given to you. Maintaining this website, and, most recently, a Facebook Page, is yet one more way I promote my accountability, the kittens are named, described and priced with no gimmicks or behind the scene tactics. Other credits to my name are my many years of experience in this field, along with having lived in the Brandon area since I was 12 years old. I care about my reputation. I am also a CFA registered cattery and adhere to their principles. I do want to close by saying, once again, there are a lot of small in home catteries and kennels out there doing a great job, but you have to do your homework. This is intended to help to inform you so that you can be sure you are buying your next family member from a reputable breeder.
THIS IS WHAT AN OFFICIAL HEALTH CERTIFICATE LOOKS LIKE. THESE ARE PURCHASED FROM A LICENSED VET AFTER HE/SHE HAS EXAMINED THE KITTEN OR PUPPY AND FINDS HIM/HER IN GOOD HEALTH. ANY BREEDER NOT COMPLYING WITH THIS LAW IS NEGLECTING THEIR KITTENS OR PUPPIES, SAVING THEMSELVES MONEY AND RIPPING YOU, THE BUYER, OFF
WHAT GOES IN TO PRODUCING A QUALITY, HEALTHY PEDIGREED PERSIAN
I've added this paragraph because, unless you have raised a litter of puppies or kittens yourself, you really can't possibly know how much work goes into it. The same thing applies to anything really, if you haven't experienced it, you can't possibly understand what it's like. From the day to day care of the parents, fussing over them, bathing, grooming, clipping nails, vaccinations, administering de-wormers and flea control products to the last adorable kitten going home, it's a lot of work. Your money and your heart are invested in them. You don't vacation or stay away from home very long. No one can or will care for them like you do. Week in and week out you're picking up 40 lbs of litter and 20 lbs of cat food seemingly every time you turn around. And this is just the adults. Then when the kittens are due it's following mom around, rubbing her fat belly, why is she in the closet? She's due any day. Then the labor starts. You hover over the birthing box.... it's worse than waiting for water to boil. Finally the first kitten makes his way into the world. You constantly move mom's tail to see what's going on. You pray that each baby makes his or her way out without problems. You assist whenever needed, cleaning and wiping, keeping the box covered so it stays warm, peering in with your flashlight at times to not disturb mom's resting in between births. You offer mom some water. Once she has had what appears to possibly be all of the kittens you offer her food. She will stay with them constantly at first and your job is to make sure they all find a nipple, they stay with the others and don't get laid on accidentally. You fall asleep but every time your eyes pop open you anxiously look in the box to make sure all is ok. That the heating pad has stayed on. That nobody has gotten separated or lost under the blanket. After the first day or two, mom wants in and out of the closed in whelping box. We keep the kittens contained for the first 4 or 5 weeks because, if we don't, mom will decide to up and move one or two kittens to a new "den" and it can become a constant game of hide and seek. Meanwhile the one or two kittens she didn't move are cold, hungry and all alone. And then there's the fact that we have small dogs and they could easily think a newborn kitten they might find is a new fangled toy of some sort. After a month of this letting mom in and out, in and out, in and out 24/7 you begin to feel a little sleep deprived. You pick the little ones up one by one, look them over, kiss their little heads and praise God. Mom is eating a lot these days and soon the kittens start acting like kittens. Names are given. Snuggling and kisses are given. Pictures are taken. I post a few pictures on social media. Toys and Litter boxes follow. Gotta run to the store for some toys, tote bags and snuggle buddies so I can begin letting mom and kittens lay on them and scent them up for each kitten to take to their new home. Now it's time to clean and feed them around the clock, just about. Nails need trimming every 2 weeks along with dewormings always making time for more kisses, playtime and socializing. Now the serious picture taking begins. Hundreds and hundreds of pictures taken, trying to get one or two great, not-blurry pictures. One thing I really enjoy ,though, is cutesying up the pictures with frames and sparkles on an online program I have! Now I place my ads, post pictures on Facebook and the Website. I email and text pictures of my beautiful babies to all of you out there. :)) I order their Purina Starter Kits and their Registration papers. I make appointments with my vet. I make appointments with *YoU*.....and here we are. The kittens are constantly growing, time to take more pictures. Now they scamper around and attack your feet from under the bed. Time to make copies of my sales contracts and all the care information I give out with each kitten. Time to put their tote bags together and get their paperwork in order. Need to pick up a few more blankets for the totes and an ink cartridge for the printer. The vet appointment is next in the process and then one by one, the kittens' new families come and take their babies home. And this is why a well bred pet from a responsible breeder will usually cost a little more.
HOW I CHOSE THE NAME PURR EPIPHANY...
The name Purrepiphany is confusing to some people. Perhaps those people have never had an epiphany...lol. The term "epiphany" is sometimes used to express an "ah ha" moment. A moment of sudden and striking realization. And of course the "Purr" part is self explanatory. :) Purr Epiphany is the moment I realized the time was right to begin this new journey. The original use of the word Epiphany was used to describe the manifestation of Christ to the Gentiles as represented by the Magi, who were Persian. (Matthew 2:1-12) The evening the wise men gazed at a star and knew that our King had been born. I found this connection to Christ comforting and so the name Purrepiphany came to be.